
The Facade of Notre Dame seen later in the morning, after our visit.
How has the restoration of the cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris fared? In February we made a visit to find out. By arriving at opening time, we mostly avoided standing in line. Just an hour or so later, a queue wound endlessly all around the square in front of the cathedral. Certainly, touristic interest is there!
Outside, the cathedral has been beautifully restored. The facades are in the best condition I have ever seen. The famous spire has returned to its place. A substantial amount of work on the exterior still needs to be completed.
Inside, the restoration after the 2019 fire has given the interior a bright, almost whitewashed look. I suppose this is intended to recreate the appearance of the cathedral in the 12th and 13th centuries – at the time of its construction. The problem is that many centuries have elapsed since then! And the effects are magnified by the bright lighting installed now. (We have earlier discussed similar restoration initiatives – or deformations – in New York at St. Patrick’s cathedral.
Masses of tourists proceed through the aisles; one is forced to move in one direction. The noise level is deafening. The cathedral tries ineffectually to combat this by broadcasting now and then a recording starting with ”shhhhh….”. This only seems to elevate the noise level. Of all these visitors, we could see no more than a handful who actually prayed.
It is all quite disconcerting. By way of comparison, the much smaller basilica of Sacre Coeur on Montmartre is also attracting hordes of tourists nowadays, yet a substantial number of people are at prayer, and that helps to restrain the noise level and preserves some sense of the sacred.
The choir of Nore Dame has been restored with new, modernistic furnishings. By “modernistic” I mean a style that could have been employed around 1970. From it one gets the sense that the Catholic Church is an institution that has run out of ideas, that it can only repeat the formulas of fifty or sixty years ago.
The side chapels have lost their status as places for the celebration of the mass. The altars are bare. Along the nave, the chapels have been renamed according to a new, specific program: one side has the names of Old Testament prophets, Of course, like all ideological projects of the Conciliar Church, this revision of the chapels ignores the context. For nobody in the hordes pressing through can stop to absorb the new theological program. In some chapels baroque paintings – historically associated with Notre Dame but not necessarily of the highest quality – are on display with museum-like lighting and settings.
At least for us, a visit to Notre Dame, because of the lighting, the effects of the cleaning, the noise, the turbulence and the exclusive focus on tourism – is no longer a religious event. The contrast with the cathedral even in 2017 – about the time of my last visit to Notre Dame – is striking. For prayer and to reflect on the spirit of Gothic architecture, the visitor should consider other cathedrals in France.


(Above) The new arrangement of the choir;(below) the new altar. In the distance one perceives a red sanctuary light on top of the old high altar (now serving as a place for reserving the Blessed Sacrament?)


(Above) More tourists than faithful are here. The sculptural group is from the the time of Louis XIV.

In the ambulatory. (Above) The “space-age” reliquary of the Crown of Thorns, brought to Paris by St. Louis. (We could not see the relic.) (Below) A favorite habit of the “Conciliar Church”: a museum-like display of Eastern icons. Those praying in these chapels, however, were few and far between.


(Above) The cleaned walls and columns are now brightly illuminated.

(Above) The side chapels are no longer used as such. The former altars are bare. In some of them, baroque paintings are displayed which were gifts of Parisian guilds in the 17th and 18th centuries. All is brightly illuminated as if in a museum.

Tourism is big business here! (One sees similar machines inside St. Patrick’s, NY.)

Some things are unchanged or have been expertly restored. (Above) A mid-14th century Madonna. A sign reads “placed in front of this pillar in 1855 and since prayed as ‘Notre Dame de Paris’ “(sic). (Below) one of the great rose windows dating to the reign of St. Louis.


(Above and below) Significant work on the exterior is still going on.











